Move the drain pan with it, as required, to avoid spillage on the ground. When the oil starts to flow, it will be directed to the rear of the car and will "walk" forward as it empties. Remove the drain plug remembering you can be burned by the hot oil. Position the drain pan so that it lies to the rear of the oil pan. It's easily visible and located at the rear of the oil pan. With the 19 mm socket and ratchet (or breaker bar), or 19 mm box wrench, and the oil drain pan, slide under the car and locate the oil drain plug. Open the hood and remove the oil filler cap to prevent the system from becoming air bound. I prefer ramps as less equipment and time is involved. Make sure the car is in gear and emergency brake on. You may need a different wrench depending on your choice of filter - the adjustable, universal, 3-jaws type is also a good bet.īegin by driving the car a few miles to bring the engine oil up to operating temperature or start the process after a run - oil drains more completely and rapidly, and flushes out more foreign matter when it's hot.Ĭhoose a fairly level surface and either ramp the car or jack it up and place jack stands under the frame rails. I picked mine up at PEP Boys but don't remember the maker I took a Mazda filter to the store with me and tried different wrenches until I found the model that fit. The correct size wrench for both filters is 65 mm (2.6") with 14 flutes, such as the type made by Lisle (part no. Other types will work but this is the easiest in my judgement. It's compact, easily fits the available space, and makes filter removal a snap it slips right on the fluted filter end. My filter wrench of choice is an end cap unit meant to be driven with a 3/8" drive ratchet. I in no way mean to imply that the OEM filter is inadequate, but the larger filter may be advantageous when utilizing the longer oil drain intervals made possible with synthetic oils.īoth of the above oil filters are no longer in production and have been superceded by replacement units. Since the volume of a cylinder = the area of its base x its height, by measuring the dimensions of the two units, I was able to determine that the 626 V6 filter has an internal volume very close to 20% greater than OEM. With the same diameter body, and identical specs in all other regards, it differs from OEM only by being taller. Because of its larger size, some (myself included) use the Mazda 626 V6 oil filter, part no. It has a M20 x 1.5 mounting thread, a 14-18 psi pressure relief valve, and an anti-drain back valve to prevent the filter body from emptying during engine off intervals.
According to the FSM: SAE 10W-30 above -25 deg C (-13 deg F) SAE 5W-30: -30 deg C to 37 deg C (-22 deg F to 98 deg F). Oil drain pan capable of holding at least 4 qts or liters
Measuring cup: 16 fluid oz/1 pint/500 ml (Pyrex glass), or equivalent 2-ramps (mine are Rhino) or floor jack and 2-jack standsġ-drain plug sealing washer: Mazda part no.
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